[F500] Taper fits

[CHARLES J VOBORIL]

I'm with Dave on this.  
The amount of force on the inside of the clutch taper will definitely increase if anti-seize is used AND you use a dry torque value.  
However, ease of removal after long operating periods due fretting and/or corrosion is more likely to be difficult if the parts are absolutely dry.  
Several ideas are:  
(1) Use anti-seize but do not go to as high a torque value as for dry assembly.  
The problem is knowing what lower torque value produces the same interference fit (or force between the 2 surfaces)) as the dry value.  
Then, how do you know that the same interference fit will result in the same resistance to breaking loose in the presence of anti-seize?  
It may not be all that hard considering that the factory values are probably conservative in terms of retaining force or resistance to breaking loose. When I think back to the days of racing at Moroso around 1990, I remember people like Jim Elder using about 40-45 foot-lbs.  
If you are reading this, Jim, any comments?  
(2) If clutches are put on dry per factory spec, then methods DO exist for getting them off. Rapping the head of the breaker bar as you go a 1/4 turn at a time with a high quality puller is one way. I have gotten clutches off that were on for 5 years (dry) that way.  
Then, finally, there is the torch. Which I have done twice and ruined nothing. But you do need to watch that crank seal!!  
(3) Assembled dry with frequent removal anticipated, there is less chance for fretting and corrosion. The taper can be lightly sanded and cleaned before being re-assembled.  

Chuck  
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